The empty beach
stretched out in all directions around us, encapsulating us in our little
paradise world. In an all too fitting series of events, we had come full
circle, and were relaxing on the very beach, at the very break, that we had
ventured to on that first fateful day of the trip, when our boards were still
delayed in Panama City, and when a whole two weeks lay before us, like an
artist’s empty canvas. As a contrast, I now sat on the sand, feeling much less
a visitor, and more a traveler with 2 weeks behind me in this land of lakes and
volcanoes.
It is appropriate,
therefore, that there’s no real good starting point for the retelling of our
adventure down in Nicaragua. In certain ways, the trip bleeds together into
mirages of traffic circles at night, window washers at light stops, narrow
cobblestone alleys in search of hostels, and van rides to a mixture of dubstep,
Britney Spears, and Led Zeppelin. But then there are also the unpaved roads,
encroached upon by blindingly vibrant earth, leading to desolate beaches. There
are the markets, the desayunos, the unclean kitchens, the rum fires, the city
views from atop cathedrals. The names of places reverberate with tones of
familiarity after two weeks of leap-frogging buses and moto taxis along the main
carreteras; names like Leon, Chinandega, Niquinohomo, Asseradores, Poneloya,
Playa Maderas, Villa el Carmen, Granada; highlighting the foreign yet somehow
reassuring relationship we had forged with our surroundings.
I attribute most of the smoothness of the trip to Sam, our
Nicaraguan expert, who, after 8 months in country volunteering with the Peace
Corps, kept us on the good road to authentic towns, secluded beach breaks,
lively markets, and spectacular hikes, and (nearly) out of the corrupt hands of
pre-pubescent cops looking to impress their girlfriends while making a buck of
some Cheles (and una China). I must also credit the group for the vibe of the
trip. Going into this not knowing the 5 other guys I’d be spending days and
nights with, I harbored a small sense of uncertainty with how we may serve as
each others’ travel buddies. Turns out, we all were on pretty much the same
page with regard to what we wanted to spend our time doing, and by the end of
the trip, I felt I had made new friends with whom I shared the same sense of
fun, adventure and entertainment. While it’s true that boasting a
half-mustache, shoulder-tapping strangers as they peed in the street, stripping
down to my birthday suit on a whim on a daily basis, or shouting “SENOR CINCO
CERVEZA POR FAVOR!!” as if reading from a Spanish 101 guidebook across a
restaurant are all things that I not only stray from, but even go out of my way
to avoid doing in my normal life, I found it perfect and irreplaceable during
our sojourn around Nicaragua. Besides, these more ridiculous stunts were
outnumbered by the other activities we did: finding a perfect rock-jumping spot
during an hours-long walk along a coastline perpetually changed and altered by
fluxuating tides; riding moto taxis haphazardly to a trailhead entrance on
which we embarked to a freshwater volcano crater lake, which we later learned
is frequented by banditos with machetes, hungrily awaiting passersby to loot;
surfing some of the best waves any of us had experienced; and building rum-fueled
beach fires to burn Medusa-head remnants of tree roots as the sun dropped down
beneath the sea.
Having returned
now back to the States, and to what feels like my painful incarceration in a
cubicle with fake light beaming down on documents and computer screens in the
capital of This Great Nation, I am torn. While I have all the takeaways that I
expected to have before embarking on my first trip to a third-world country, most
namely a certain cynicism regarding American waste and gluttony, and also a
greater appreciation for a pared down life, a broadened sense of the value of a
dollar, an enlightened view regarding the lifestyles of those in another
culture, I also am struck by a surprising sense of nationalism, for lack of a
better word, which I did not expect to have after such a trip. It’s a notion of
pride I have for the opportunities I have been afforded, tempered also by the
realization that to whom much is given, much is required. The Peace Corps seems
set out to act on precisely this perhaps idealistic sentiment, and I wish Sam
and his co-volunteers, some of whom we met (chmm, CHMMMM…), the best as they
fulfill the rest of their time with the Peace Corps.
In honor of the
trip, and of the memories I hope do not fade, I ate a peanut butter and jelly
sandwich for dinner the other night, if only to remind me that during a moment
when our lives were simple and unworried, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich was
all we needed to sustain us through to the next surf session, the next town,
and to another unforgettably amazing adventure in our lives.
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